It was July 1998. It was the first time I traveled to what would become my eventual Asian home.
I was leading a summer language study program here in Asia for the first time ever. Our group was 24 strong. We, as a group, were clueless about life over here in every conceivable way. We were the only group of our type in this massive, yet relatively unknown Asian city.I had been “in-country” for just over three months, as I had come over early to help plan for and set up the summer study program. The other 23 joined me three weeks earlier.
Asia seemed mysterious and dark to all of us at that time. None of us knew the language beyond survival food ordering.
Then 4th of July happened. We heard that the US Consulate in our city was having a party of which Americans were invited. Seeing that there were only a handful of Americans in this part of the world at the time, this was an opportunity at which we jumped!
We departed from our dorm rooms and caravaned on our dilapidated $10 bikes. The sky was grey, even a bit misty with rain. This had been the case for the entire summer, so nothing unusual about it. It must have been quite a sight seeing this massive posse of big Americans riding in a pack of 24 down the side of the street in this remote Asian mega-city.
We arrived, parked our bikes across the street, and proceeded to the front gate of the US Consulate. In a single file line, we went through the passport check and security scanners. Not your standard beginning to a 4th of July party, but expected given the location.
We entered the courtyard, and in a collective gasp, it was as if we had been transported into weird twilight zone type experience.
There was a cover band playing Lynyrd Skynyrd’s “Sweet Home Alabama.” The irony was palpable, as half the group was from the state of Alabama. The band, though, consisted of Filipino women in tight dresses, singing in slightly broken English. Still, the “comfort music” was well received . . . like a long-lost friend.
There were vats of iced Cokes and beer. Though the hotdogs were pretty strange tasting, they were hotdogs and we hammered them as if we were in one of those contests you see on ESPN2 around 3am.
It was American (sort of). It was glorious.
There were awkward conversations with random US Consulate employees all day. One of the higher ups tried to convince myself and a few others to “enter the Asia track” of service with the State Department. It was a bit uncomfortable, as none of us were the slightest bit interested.
Another man in his 50s hit on some of the MALE students. It was very uncomfortable, as we were even less interested. Americans living in places like this particular city in Asia tend to be strange birds. The day was indicative of this fact.
We returned to our dorms that night with bellies full of imitation “hot dogs” and carbonated beverages. It was a strange 4th of July, but one for which we were all profoundly grateful.
This past week, fifteen years later to the day, I hosted a cookout at my apartment. There were 14 friends and three wonderful children. Half of the group was made up of local Asian friends and the other half from the great state of Alabama. Three of the women were here passing through to visit a friend who lives in my same apartment complex, as well as Rush Stuart’s Mom who is here visiting her family.
We grilled hotdogs made from an Amish run bakery in a different city and my best marinated BBQ chicken. We talked about life, shared great food, and blow a few things up with the fireworks I had saved from this year’s New Year celebration.
My “firework show” consisted of me tossing a few M-80 type fireworks off the balcony of my back deck. I live in an apartment building which is 15 stories high, so not sure my neighbors appreciated the holiday festivities.
It was a really good time.
One thing which is difficult about living overseas is the fact we miss so much of our lives back in America. However, one aspect I love about overseas life is all the interesting, fun, and quirky experiences which mark our lives over here.
Awkward parties at US Consulates, grilling out from the balcony of massive urban buildings, and life threatening “firework shows” are common place around here.
I clearly do miss my life back in America, especially during times like the 4th of July.
However, I am incredibly grateful for the community I am a part of here and the never boring and always interesting situations in which we find ourselves on a daily basis.
Hi John, as usual I truly enjoyed your blog on the 4th of July Asian style. I love your apartment, it is big and lots of space, very nice. You have a gift for writing, you tell the BEST stories and I love your humor, Good Job!! Take Care, I use to worry about you but now I see you really do like Asia, right?? Hugs!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you so much, Jane. I really appreciate all of your encouragement in this blog!
The camera angle definitely makes my place look bigger than it is, but I am very, very grateful for it. My landlord put some unique decorating touches on this place, so it is pretty funny and a little shocking.
Thanks!
Love the memories and sentiments you shared in both your July 4th posts! How special that you were able to connect with your big family this year and could provide them with wonderful 4th of July memories! I happen to be in the States now doing life with my family. The highlight for my 4th this year…water balloon fight with my 4 nephews and niece. Grace & peace
Wow, that is great you are able to be with your family right now!
Yeah, the group of folks, both local and expat, is a great one. I am very fortunate.
Have a great time in the States!
Always so entertaining to read your posts, John! 🙂 Glad you’ve found a new family to celebrate with, and that you’re hosting these gatherings for everyone to enjoy!
Thanks Joce. . . hope you guys had a good holiday as well!
Someone needs to dress up like Uncle Sam next year and go to evening old woman dance parks.
I’m pretty sure Owens Hall is the only one man enough for an assignment such as this.
Comments like that make me so proud
I was hoping you guys would see it!
Fun post. Brought back memories of food poisoning at a 94′ 4th party at a consulate in Shanghai. You are in the homeland of fireworks, you can do better than “tossing a few m-80’s”. That’s all we can do over here and avoid the “Po-Po”. I expect more for the next new year. I know people who would underwrite your costs just to live vicariously through you.
Tim, I need you to introduce me to said people.
Yeah, we tore it up over the New Year, but seeing that no one knows about July 4th in my complex, I didn’t want to freak people out.
Missed the 94 time and you barely missed the time I wrote about here.
Hey John! Loved this blog post and the pictures especially! I miss you guys!!
Thanks Mrs. Littlepage. . . wish you could have been with us!
I would have traded my USA fourth to be with yall!
You would have been a tremendous addition…miss you already!
Just catching up on some of your posts. That was about how I remember that fourth of July at the consultant. You left out one detail of one of the staff running over a kid with her bike and the grandmother waiting outside of the consultant for what seemed like forever trying to extort money from her.
Also, I’m sure there are more normal expats at this point in Asia, but the ones that were there in 1998 were a different breed for sure. Hope your trip home has been good!
Keith, you are so right, my friend. I honestly wanted to put that story in, but just ran out of space. It was hilarious and rough at the same time!
Hope you are well, my friend.
Let’s trade apartments John! I love yours! The deck especially! I could spend my entire evenings there just staring at nothing.